You switch yarn when crocheting by stopping two stitches before you run out, finishing the last stitch with the new strand, then carrying on as if nothing happened. I switch yarn constantly, whether I am changing colors, running out of a skein, or upgrading to a nicer yarn halfway through a blanket. Any weight of yarn works with this method, from fine sock yarn to bulky, and you do not need to be past beginner level to do it cleanly.
What You’ll Need
This is a short list on purpose. You do not need a full supply kit for this technique, just the pieces that actually touch the join.
- Working yarn: whatever you are currently crocheting with, with a few yards left
- New yarn or new skein: the strand you are switching to
- Your crochet hook: same one you have been using, no need to change size
- A yarn needle: for weaving in the two loose ends once you are done
Step-by-Step Instructions
Here is the switch itself, timed to the last stitch before the yarn runs out or the color needs to change.
- Work your last stitch in the old yarn until two loops remain on the hook.
- Lay the new strand over the hook instead of the old one.
- Yarn over with the new strand and pull it through both loops to finish the stitch.
- Drop the old yarn tail to the back of your work.
- Continue the next stitch entirely in the new yarn, holding both tails out of the way.
- After 3 or 4 more stitches, stop and tie the two tails in a loose overhand knot to keep tension steady while you finish the row.
- Once the piece is done, undo that knot and weave in both ends with a yarn needle.
Variations by Stitch and Method
The pull-through timing above works for single crochet, but taller stitches need a small adjustment. For half double, double, or treble crochet, switch on the very last yarn over of the stitch, not the last loop pull, since those stitches have more steps stacked on the hook.
Working in a joined round versus turned rows also changes where I place the switch. In turned rows I always switch at the start or end of a row so the tails land on the same edge. In continuous spiral rounds, there is no natural edge, so I pick a consistent spot, like directly above the previous round’s switch point, to keep a straight seam line running up the piece.
For a nearly invisible join with no ends to weave in at all, the Russian join and the magic knot both work by splicing the two yarns together before you crochet over them, rather than switching mid-stitch. I reach for those two methods specifically when I am joining two balls of the exact same yarn rather than changing color.
Common Mistakes
Three problems come up again and again with this technique, and all three have a specific fix.
- Bulky joins: caused by tying a knot instead of switching mid-stitch. Untie it and follow the pull-through method above instead.
- A visible color jump: happens when you switch mid-row instead of at a row or round edge. Plan your switch point ahead of time on striped projects.
- Jagged transitions in spiral rounds: fixed by switching at the same stitch position every round, which keeps the seam line straight instead of staggering diagonally.
Frequently asked questions
How do you hide a yarn join in crochet?
The Russian join hides best for most yarns, since it splices both strands together before you ever crochet over them, leaving no tails to weave in later. It works especially well on smooth, non-fuzzy yarn where the spliced section can blend in. For fuzzy or textured yarn, a well-placed switch at the edge of a row combined with tight end-weaving is usually invisible enough.
What is the best way to join yarn without a knot?
Switch yarn on the last pull-through of a stitch, as described above, rather than tying the two strands together. This method uses the crochet stitches themselves to lock the new yarn in place, so no knot is ever needed. Weave in the two loose tails afterward with a yarn needle for a completely knot-free finish.
Can you change colors in the middle of a row?
Yes, using the same last-pull-through switch described in the steps above, though I avoid it on visible rows unless the pattern calls for it. Mid-row color changes are harder to hide than switches at a row’s edge, since the jump sits inside the fabric instead of along a seam. If the pattern allows it, plan the switch to land at the start or end of the row instead.
Wrap Up
Switching yarn while crocheting comes down to one habit: change strands on the last pull-through of a stitch, not between stitches. Once that timing feels automatic, it works the same way whether you are joining a fresh skein of the same yarn or making a deliberate color change. If you are working in continuous rounds rather than turned rows, read up on working in the round next, since that is where most switch-timing questions come from.